Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Build Update #6

I got a lot done lately. The body is basically finished (except for the binding channels and pickup cavities). Here is the final process.



I pressed the front top of the guitar better than i did the back (i kept the veneers aligned between presses). The result is a profile closer to mold's profile. here is a picture of the contours of the front top at an angle. The spruce kerfing has also been added and routed flush.



I traced the shape of the f-holes off of the blueprints and transferred them to a piece of MDF and cut it out with a jigsaw and finished it with a few files. I used a 1/4" router bit to transfer the cut onto the top. The shank of the bit was used as a bearing to ride against the MDF 'stencil'. I again used files to clean up the sharp corners.



I installed the mahogany kerfing as i've done before. The front top is cutout. I wrote some notes inside the guitar, including the date, my name, and materials used. I (hopefully) will never again have to read what i wrote down.




Time to say goodbye. I was thinking of embedding a penny with today's year inside the mahogany tailpiece, but i stopped myself. No need to waste more time.




Smells of rich mahogany.




again.




After some dry tests, i clamped the top on (finally). The spool clamps worked wonders and were worth making for this specific purpose. For those making acoustic, semihollow, or archtop guitars, i recommend stopping at the Home Depot and picking up $28 worth of materials, and making your own spool clamps. Much cheaper. Very simple.




After drying for 24 hours, the clamps were removed. From the beginning, i've always looked forward to giving the guitar a tap. I've created an acoustic box.
I made a jig to hold my router above my workbench. I put a flush trim router bit in and routed flush the sides. This will be the same process for when i route the binding channels.




It felt good to be able to rest the guitar on my leg as if i were playing it.




Contours look great. Notice the reflection of the flash on the walnut. Once i sand and finish it, the effect should be much more noticeable, and beautiful.





I will order most of the parts listed in my previous post sometime this week. I will be in Virginia next week so no work then. I hope to get back and have the parts delivered and ready.

The neck blank got a trim yesterday. I used the same method for routing flat the maple centerblock. Routing into the blank released a violent scent of flowers and lemon. I've worked with mahogany in the past and never encountered this smell before. I guess it's a variety of mahogany i havent used yet (i hope it is mahogany). I might make a rough cut of the neck before i leave this saturday (probably not).


-Andrew

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Build Update #5

Big milestone. I picked up a 4' stick of mahogany and cut some 9 mm x 11 mm triangles using a table saw. Using a homemade sliding jig with a stop, i cut about 108" of kerfing with a bandsaw. The specific piece of mahogany was much more brittle than the others i've gotten in the past, and the kerfing kept breaking. No problems though.




I bought a 24 piece set of clamps for $5 from Harbor Freight (a magical place, full of wonder and amusement) and used them to clamp the kerfing to the guitar sides, with the help of a number of cauls (shown).




I then took a piece of aircraft grade spruce (from www.aircraftspruce.com) and kerfs horizontally and vertically on it. This would allow me to glue it to the inner contours of the 4-ply top with the vacuum press (clamps there to apply some extra pressure).




The next step was to level the freshly attached spruce to the same level as the border of the top. A router was attached to a sled and passed over the spruce.




Eventually, after removing a ridiculously large amount of spruce, the top was ready for trimming and attaching.




The trimmed top is ready. The kerfing is all in place.




I bought a 1-1/4" dowel, 24 bolts, 48 washers, and 24 wing nuts and made 24 spool clamps for only $25 (compared to stewmac's $21 for 6). Along with the spool clamps, i used a $10 deep throat clamp from HF and 2 irwin clamps to apply pressure to the centerblock.




The guitar sides and back joined together.




This will look lovely.





My next step is to repeat the spruce cutting and shaping process for the front of the guitar, along with routing the f-holes. The extra laminate extending outside the sides will be trimmed off using the spindle sander. I will soon need to order these parts/tools: rosewood fretboard (pre-slotted), fret-wire, holly veneer (headstock), binding, plunge router, router bits, machine heads, ToM bridge, stopbar, pearl inlays, pickups........

Hopefully I won't spend too much money on that.


I posted a video on my YouTube channel showing my process for pressing the guitar tops. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Agj-PRrwWZQ