Build Update #11

My gift to you is a smörgåsbord of fine craftsmanship and shiny chrome.



The fretboard was given a blanket of blue tape to protect it during the final neck shaping. Here shown is the center of the neck profile with its final shape (almost). For this, i used a straightedge (xSpeedsquarex) to check for any rocking points. It was also helpful to check for any light shining through the speed-square against the neck. I adjusted my spokeshave so it would remove very little material. I started in the middle and worked my way to the sides, until it was perfectly straight. The profile was made perfectly round by taking a piece of 100 grit sandpaper, wrapping it around the neck, and doing what i call the 'shoe-shining' or the 'old-fashioned-vibrating-belt-machine' maneuver. After sanding, a small, unsanded stripe down the middle of the neck told me that there was a flat spot. I continued sanding until it disappeared completely. Later on, the heel of the neck got its final shape. I regret taking more photographs of the process, because once i felt comfortable with the process, i went at it for hours until it was finished.




Here, the pickup cavity template is taped into place. I used a 7/8" forstner bit to remove most of the material



Here's the result on the bridge pickup.



I used a 1/2" pattern flush bit to remove all the material, then switched to a 1/4" bit to sharpen the 'inner' corners. A 1/2" forstner was then used to hog out the mounting screw holes, which was cleaned up with the 1/4" router bit.



The neck tenon was trimmed to allow the pickup to fit into the cavity at its lowest possible setting. After the first 'step' of the tenon, as seen in the picture, i leveled it off flush with the walnut body.



I cut out two bits of mahogany and glued them underneath the fretboard. After the glue cured, i used tracing paper covered in charcoal to make a rubbing of where the little 'wings' needed to be shaved to sit flush against the walnut. The fretboard binding was sanded flat to remove any file/sanding marks. The marks on the pickup are sticker residue.



I ran into a big problem after i attached the fretboard and shaped the neck. If you recall from my previous post, i sanded the fretboard side of the neck after adjusting the truss rod. Apparently , i didn't sand it enough. There was still quite a bit of back bow to the neck after the fretboard was attached, and since i used titebond to glue it on, there wasn't a chance i could get it off cleanly. I even let the neck sit for 3 days after adjusting before sanding it flat. My solution to this was to loosen the truss rod 'slightly' (1/4 turn) and sand the fretboard perfectly flat. At most, i took off about 1/32" of rosewood near the center (this is only an estimate). I checked the 'flatness' with a long steel computer printer guide-rail i happen to have. The change in the fretboard thickness, to my relief (no pun intended, for those who catch it), is unnoticeable.
To prep the board for frets, i first used a triangular file to bevel the fret slots (google "bevel fret slot"). This prevents the rosewood from tearing out when the frets are pressed into place (or taken out later, if needed). I then rounded the fretboard binding until it was comfortable to the fingers. I gave the board a once-over with 1500 grit sandpaper and a blast of air before applying a large dose of Fret Doctor oil. It is essential for the fretboard to be well oiled to prevent it from drying out and getting damaged.



This really brings out the grain and darkens the wood.



Here is my fret press. It is just a sliver of a 12" sanding block with a cut screw set inside. I placed the screw into the chuck and unplugged the drill press (i had a feeling that out of habit i would turn the press on). The frets seated very easily, except for the higher frets which needed a little extra persuasion with a tack hammer, whose head was layered with 10 or so layers of masking tape. Some experienced luthiers may frown upon my process, but it worked quickly and left the fretboard/neck completely undamaged. Since this is a new fretboard with fresh slots, i didn't use any glue to seat the frets.




Using my homemade fret nippers, i trimmed the frets flush with the side.



I ordered the electronics (w/knobs), bridge, and tailpiece from gutiarfetish.com. While hardware was inexpensive, they certainly aren't cheap. The intonation saddles move smoothly w/o rattle. Then again, i have nothing to compare these with.


My next step is to dress the frets by leveling them, beveling them, and then crowning them. I ordered hide glue and a jewelers saw from LMII to help finish the neck w/inlays.

I felt slightly disappointed when i found out i spent about $500 on all the wood/hardware (i figured to be within $200-$300). I did some other calculations and discovered it would only cost another ~$300 to make another, for i have all the tools/ leftover wood.

I'll also have a homemade guitar to show off, that i didnt pay $3,000 for. Not to mention the knowledge that i've gained is priceless.

-Andrew