Rebuild: Update 7

I began the fretwork recently. Here's the steps:

 

 The binding on the fretboard needed patched. I used scrap binding and binding glue to patch the spot, and it turned out seamless. The woodwork done around this 'extension' of the bottom 4 frets is actually better than the original work. It looks great.

I sanded down the fretboard with 220, 400, 600, and 1000 grit sandpaper. Despite the slight glare, the rosewood fretboard displayed it's excellent, purple figure that has been hidden under finger grease and grime.

 

Seamless. Like it was never butchered.

Using the modified Husky cutters, I cut the fretwire to length for each fret.

 Cut wire.

 The Husky cutters were dull and couldn't cut the fret tang. I gave up very quickly with them and finally caved and ordered Stew-Mac's fret cutters and a medium/wide fret crowning file. My last fret job with this guitar took quite a long time with only a triangular file and sandpaper. The file should make the job take seconds rather than 15 minutes per fret. Regular super glue was used to hold the frets in considering this is a re-fret. The hammer is a nylon/rubber hammer from Home deux Pot.

 The frets initially pounded in. I used the nylon hammer for seating, and a few light, quick taps with a steel hammer (carefully). Before each fret was seated, I put a small line of glue on the fret wire. But even before that...

 ...I bent this scrap fret wire and filed the tang 'teeth' off. This was used to test each fret slot for obstructions by sliding it along the slot. Notice the nipped fret tang and the 45 degree angle at the end of the tang. This allows the fret to seat more completely. (The glob of binding on the fretboard is from the patch. The patch before shrank so I had to add more glue).

 I could just level the frets without assuring a flat neck. Results would be acceptable, but I'd rather make sure the neck was as straight as possible before leveling. I bought a 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum blank for $8 from the H.D. I marked the frets and used a triangular file to cut slots in the metal. The straightedge can now be used to assure the neck is straight, even with the frets on.

Straightedge on fretboard. Notice the trimmed and beveled frets.

 Not bad. Will be useful.

The fretboard is essentially completely flat without any strings nor a tightened truss rod. I will do a preliminary leveling without any strings, then I will put on 5 strings, tuned up a half step, and tighten the truss rod accordingly. With the neck as flat as possible, I will re-level the frets along the stringless segment of fretboard. This will be repeated for each string. The material removed during the stringed leveling will be minimal, but this is what levels the frets to a degree most optimal for playing. There are jigs (Erlewine jig) and machines (PLEK) that do this more efficiently, but I'm not too enthusiastic on making the investment for a proper jig. The half step up tuning is required to keep the tension on the neck the same for 5 strings as it is for 6. Not the best method, but it should give a more positive result, rather a negative.

 Enjoy

-Andrew