Bandsaw: Update 7

Still locating a motor. The main 'functional' parts of the saw are done. Here's the last bit.

I've followed most of the instructions and cut the dimensions as written up until now. I figured I'd customize the build a bit more and construct a neat table. I cut out the main center from 3/4" birch plywood, and stained it dark. I then applied a base coat of finishing epoxy (the same as my guitar) to seal the stain in before gluing the trim. The trim is just some strips of mitered maple. Seen here is right after gluing the maple.

I beveled the edges of the maple with a router. Afterwards, I applied more epoxy. The maple used looks quite nice.

Poo extraction clothes. Maple. Etc.

After about 3 coast of epoxy, I marked where the blade channel will be cut with the table saw along with the center hole for the blade to pass through.

A quick pass with the table saw and a few cuts with the bandsaw, the table begins to take its final position.

The trunions were screwed to the sub-table, and the sub-table and trunions were screwed to the table.

With the table on the trunions, the blade made contact with the table hole. This picture is from below the table, with the angle at 45 degrees. You can see the beveled notch I chiseled to fix the issue.

The 3/4" plywood sill bent enough whereas a piece of wood would bump the edge from this slot. A common remedy is to insert a bolt and nut centered on the groove. This will clamp the plywood level along the groove. It will be removed when the blade needs changed.

A view from below.

I set up some fences and routed a ~1/4" deep rabbet around the square opening. A few planed pieces of oak later, I have a zero-clearance insert. I made a few so I can replace them if necessary.

I've since resawed some 4" oak boards for fun. I can see this being of great use in the future. Here it is running.The epoxy finish is extremely durable and smooth. I'm not entirely sure what the benefits are compared to standard finishes like polyurethane, so time will tell. I'm assuming here that the epoxy is harder than most finishes. 

I've recently purchased the lumber and hardware for the stand (the plans are, again, from woodgears.ca). The plans call for dovetail joints, which will be interesting because I've never done something like that before. I could always opt for a simple finger joint if I'm a sissy. We'll see.

Until next time.

-A.

Bandsaw: Update 6

Many hours later.

I clamped the saw down to the table, along with the 1/3 HP motor on the side. 

At this point I was able to spin the saw up for the first time. The wheel pitch, wheel height, wheel shaft position, and blade guide positions had to be adjusted.  The tension of the blade held the bearings in place for testing.

Blade guide detail

Using the patented bearing-screwdriver technique, I balanced the wheels. I let the wheel settle with the heavy side down. I then taped a few pennies a fixed distance from the center. Once balanced, I calculated the equivalent volume of plywood to remove from the opposite side from the pennies. I drilled that volume out and the wheel was balanced. This method worked perfect the first time. 

I determined the final wheel position and cut out some wooden washers and some thin cardboard to achieve the proper spacing. The same was done for the bottom.

A temporary MDF table was clamped to the trunnion beam.

I haven't used a bandsaw in years, so this was quite enjoyable. These are the trunnion cradles.

 

 It is important for proper table function that the trunnions are shaped perfectly. I determined the following method for achieving perfect trunnions. This is tigerwood.

 I first cut these rough shaped 'semi'-circles. The center points for the circles are included in the cuts.

A nail allows me to spin the pieces around and true the semi-circle edge.

With all 6 pieces trued, I cut a notch for the center of the trunnions.

The nail helped me align the pieces for gluing and clamping.

Chopped off the center point 'nib' with the bandsaw.

Then cut out the inner curve and sanded it smooth.

After a few hours, I trued my trunnions. This involved pencil graphite to mark high points on the maple cradles. These high points were sanded down, and the process repeats until I was satisfied.

The sub-table was cut from 3/4" birch plywood. Nothing special. The trunnions were screwed onto the sides.

I align the center of the trunnions with the blade. I marked the bottom of the sub-table. This will help with placing the trunnion cradles onto the trunnion support beam.

 The 'shop'.

After careful measuring and marking, I drilled the holes for the dowels on the trunnions support beam and cradles. 

The dowels swell and essentially clamp the cradles in place. This is my first experience with dowel joints.

The trunnions fit perfectly on both sides. I couldn't have done it better. Everything's aligned and the trunnion center line is right where it should be. This picture also shows the lower wheel's stop on the shaft, consisting of a bolt and washer. The same was done on the upper wheel.

I marked on the trunnion cradles where the clamping bolt will go. This is determined by tilting the sub-table 45 degrees, and marking where the trunnions' inner slot stops. This basically means that the table will stop when it hits the bolt at 45 degrees. 

The hole is drilled. The 1/4" carriage bolt sits in a small piece of maple inside the trunnion curve. The system works perfectly. 

I have cut out the main table (in a very dangerous fashion) out of 2'x4' birch plywood. I have stained it a dark color, and will apply an epoxy finish using the same epoxy I used for my guitar. A maple trim will also be glued to the outside of the table. 

All left is the main table, the motor, and the outer casing.

Bandsaw: Update 5

 Hi.

I finally found some 14" tubes. I cut them down the middle and stretched them over the wheels.

Some rip cuts and a 35 degree cut later, I have the main extension for the upper blade guide. The smaller bits for the actual blade guide components were quick to cut, so I didn't document that at all.

This block will be the clamp for the upper blade guide extension. It has a series of steps and angles that need cut, so this piece was a bit difficult to manufacture. I used a large forstner bit to remove most the center...

... then I used the cross-cut sled to flatten the main area out. You can see the marks of future cuts in the picture. These were all done with the table saw. The blade has dulled noticeably since working this maple.

 Shown are the new blade guides, including the guide blocks made from leftover mahogany for the guitar neck. Care was taken to ensure the long upper blade guide extension moved linearly along the blade. The notch, which was cut in the frame, was squared carefully with a circular saw followed by a chisel.

The extension clamp is in place. The guides hold firmly. I'll need to either manufacture a few hand knobs, or buy some plastic ones. These would be used for the upper blade guide extension and thrust bearing (along with the future table trunions).

That's all for now. I'll try to document more in the future.