After the truss rod channel was routed, the hole for the anchor was drilled. My 3/8" forstner bit worked well. The end of the truss rod was threaded with a die and the anchor was screwed on. The thread on the back side of the anchor was peened (smash the shit out of it with a hammer) and ground flush.
Here is the mahogany filler strip, cut to the same curve as the channel. This was clamped and glued into place.
Then planed flush with the neck. Also shown is the maple veneer I decided to use (since i had plenty of it) to cover the headstock, instead of holly.
I transferred the neck shape with pencil to the wood and trimmed as much as i could with a jigsaw.
I taped the headstock template to the neck and used a pattern trim bit to route the form.
Turned out well. Very little tear-outs.
Mustache
The remainder of the headstock was trimmed with the spindle sander.
The neck was sanded to about 1/16" from the fretboard. Also, all the body binding was scraped flush, resulting in a grocery bag full of shavings.
Here is the neck in my vise, showing some markings around the headstock.
Here's my arsenal of tools. I mainly used the black rasp/file and the spokeshave to shape the neck. Also shown is the 1st fret and 12th fret profile templates.
Rasp work around the headstock.
MOAR.
The 1st fret and headstock area gets to its final thickness, but not the final profile.
Testing the spokeshave near the center of the neck.
The neck heel gets its rough shape.
A bulk of material was removed from the center of the neck. At this time the truss rod was tightened slightly, and the resulting curve on the neck was sanded flat. This means that, when the string tension is applied, i will be able to put a reverse curve on the neck, if needed, by loosening the truss rod nut.
The fretboard is glued on. I used some spare 12" radius sanding blocks as clamping cauls.
Tomorrow i will give the neck its final shape up flush with the fretboard binding.
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