Thursday, July 15, 2010

Build Update #8

I got my order from Stew-Mac on Monday. This includes the fretboard and body binding, truss rod, rosewood fretboard, fretwire, inlays, and humbucker pickup screws.



Here i've created a routing template for the neck mortise. I needed the width to be 1.5", and after cutting the template, it measured exactly 1.500" on my calipers. I was quite surprised. Shown above, i've mounted the template to a scrap piece of wood (right) and precisely adjusted a spacer wood block (left under weights) until i achieved a 4 degree neck angle. To get the correct angle, i measured the height off the table at four points, and used some simple trigonometry to find the angle. I aimed for around 4 +/- .5 degrees.



Before routing, a majority of the material was removed via a forstner bit. The template angle jig was held in place by plenty of hot glue.



After a number of passes, here is the final result. You can see the individual layers of wood. From top to bottom: walnut, maple, maple, maple, spruce, and then the maple centerblock.



After much trimming with the router sled, chisel, and file, the neck tenon fit snug in the mortise.



I knew I would need a radius sanding block eventually, so i made this nifty jig which routes a perfect 12" (or 15") radius cut in a piece of pine. The nut and bolt located behind the router determines the radius. I had a 10" hole cut, but the router was in the way for the bolt. The process was rather tedious, but it got the job done. I routed an 8" long 12" and 15" radius blocks, and a few smaller 12" radius blocks. The small ones can be used for touching up high spots and for pressing and dressing the frets.



I used a router and a jigsaw to cutout a humbucker template from MDF. The template was tested on this piece of pine, where the pickup fit perfectly.



I also needed to radius the fretwire. This is needed because after installation, the frets may want to spring up near the ends, which can cause problems (my 12 string has a bad case of this). To radius the fretwire, i used a design i've seen throughout the interweb and on stew mac. I didn't feel like paying $90 for something that i need this one time, so i made one from a piece of wood, a pulley, and two knex wheels. The radius is arbitrary, only as long as it's less than the radius of the fretboard.



I also made a fretboard template out of MDF. The piece of MDF is from my veneer joining jig from build update #3. In the background you can see the gold Classic 57' humbuckers and their mounting/height screws from stew mac.



After routing flush with the template, the fretboard is to size. Later that evening i went to drill the holes for the 6mm fretboard inlays. The forstner bit would be the logical choice, but the resulting hole would have been too wide for the inlay dot. I found a standard drill bit that cut a hole that let the inlay fit snug. The wobbly drill press i used placed the hole extremely off center, immediately ruining my chances of using the board for dot inlays. So i ordered a new board, along with 6.35mm dot inlays, which should work well with the forstner bit. The board isn't a total loss; i can still use it for block inlays, if i get the chance.



I built a jig to route the binding channels. These channels are 1/4" tall and ~1/16" deep.



The jig. The tall post helps keep the body square to the bit. I didn't worry about grain direction vs. routing direction, as some might with other builds. Since the top is laminate (alternating plies), grain direction means nothing, and i suffered no wood tear outs.



I made some binding glue from scrap binding and acetone. The acetone melts the ABS plastic and creates a sticky paste. A judicious amount of glue was applied to the channel, and the binding was taped to the body.


This will set for 2 days. At that time, the other side of the binding will be adhered. The bindings will be scraped flush with the body once cured. The 2nd fretboard should arrive tomorrow. I have everything set to be able to build the entire fretboard in a day, given i don't mess up the inlays again. Once the fretboard is done, i can attach it to the neck and start its final shaping. Also, the freshly attached fretboard will give me my bearings on how close my neck angle is, in case i need to make any minor adjustments.

Things are moving along.

-Andrew

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